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This week’s questions cover:

•   Pocket handkerchiefs
•   Attaching ribbons to the Royal Navy Officers Number One uniform

Dear G & H experts,

I wanted to know, when putting a white silk handkerchief in the pocket of a dinner jacket is it advisable to have a straight pocket square or more of a flower like shape?

Many Thanks
Simon Armitage

Dear Simon

The pocket handkerchief or pocket square appeared about 400 years ago in Italy. During the reign of Henry II they became more and more elaborate and luxurious, with touches such as embroidery. They became very popular in court with lords and ladies.

Louis XVI published a decree that all handkerchiefs produced in Versailles would be equal in length and width after Marie-Antoniette thought that the squared form was more aesthetically pleasing.

By the late 19th and the early 20th century handkerchiefs and pocket squares were readily available in silk, linen or cotton and no gentleman could be considered well-dressed without one

The out breast welt pocket is made for a pocket square only. A simple, clean, white handkerchief in either a luxurious linen or basic cotton is all that is needed to complete a business look and offers a elegant touch to the suit. It can be plain white or with coloured bordered edges. The simplest way of folding this is into a square with the top showing, although it is advisable never to show more than 3cm above the pocket welts.

If a silk square is worn, it should compliment the tie, but never match it! It is far easier to use a flowery folding technique with silk as it is difficult to fold into a square and will move around.

Whatever fabric or fold you choose, keep the look spontaneous – as if you haven’t tried too hard.

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Dear Sirs,

I have been asked to attach ribbon bars and becketts to a Royal Navy Officers No.1 uniform and Mess uniform. According to BR81 (the naval dress regulations), for the No.1 uniform, the ribbon bar needs to be 2.5cm from the shoulder. Is this correct, as it seems rather high?

Also there is no mention as to where the becketts/miniature medals are exactly positioned on the mess uniform jacket.

I would be very grateful if you could tell me the correct measurements.

Thank you

Laura

Dear Laura

Placing the ribbon bar 2.5cm from the shoulder seems very high. Our guide for the ribbons on a Royal Navy Officers No.1 uniform are that they need to sit level with the notch of the lapel, around 11cm down from the shoulder (depending on the size of the jacket). As a result they do sit a lot higher for the Royal Navy than they do for the other two services where they are positioned above the pocket.

As for beckets for miniature medals, they should sit on the left lapel of the Mess Jacket 1cm below the first buttonhole.

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