Let our experts soothe your sartorial troubles. Leave your query in the reply box at the bottom of this page and our team will be only too delighted to help.

This week’s questions cover:

• Tuxedos and dinner jackets
• Bow ties
• Vests and waistcoats

What is the difference between a tuxedo and a dinner jacket?
Dressed to Impress

Dear Dressed to Impress,

You say tom-ay-to… the difference between a tuxedo and dinner jacket is about 3,000 miles. Here in the UK we say dinner jacket; in the US or Canada it’s a tuxedo or tux.

After the dinner jacket was invented (in Savile Row, of course) in 1860, a visiting American purchased one and brought it home. It became quite the thing in the Tuxedo Park Club, New York – hence the name.

The traditional tux is a single-breasted jacket without a centre back vent and comes in black or midnight blue (ivory – not pure white – is also worn in warmer climes). But if you prefer a double-breasted dinner jacket, then that is also acceptable. The lapels are faced with silk or grosgrain.

For trousers, flat-fronted styles have taken over from the pleated front. Turn-ups and belt loops are still a no-no, hold up your trousers with braces instead. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single silk braid to match the lapel facing.

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What’s the scoop on bow ties?

Bow Brummel

Dear Bow Brummel,

Wearing a bow tie during the day is coming back into fashion – it’s good to see that you are ahead of the fashion pack. A bow tie will sit well with most collar styles but do avoid excessive cut aways.

There are times, of course, when a black bow tie must be worn: a dinner jacket looks quite wrong with anything else.

All smart gentlemen know that a bow tie should be hand-tied by the wearer. With practice you will find that it is as easy to tie as a normal tie. It is different from the pre-tied version and people will know and appreciate the difference.

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What is the difference between a waistcoat and a vest and how do I wear one?
Anon

Dear Anon,

A vest and a waistcoat are the same thing. But whatever you like to call it, you are right to be asking about it this season. A suit with a waistcoat (what we in the trade call a three-piece suit) is definitely making a comeback.

Before you button up, however, make a note of this waistcoat checklist:

1. Do not under any circumstances wear a waistcoat with low-rise trousers.

2. Likewise for belts. Only side adjusters or braces will do.

3. Skin tight is too tight – a man must be able to sit comfortably.

4. Count five buttons from the top. Your waistcoat must be long enough for this to cover the waistband of your trousers, but not so long that the points extend below the hip.

5. The top of your waistcoat should show above your jacket, and the back should be longer than the front (so that you don’t – horrors – expose your waistband when bending forward).

6. An adjustable rear belt is essential.

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